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  • 华石红枫秋火焰种苗
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商品名:华石红枫秋火焰种苗 (201101003 )

品种名:华石火焰红枫

商品规格:高5-20公分

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  参考价:¥15.00
用户评分:红星红星红星红星红星 (已有0人评论)

品种介绍:

生长适应性特别好,是红枫与银枫杂交变种。干材生长迅速。秋天呈现亮红色或者橘红色。在红枫品种中最耐盐碱,在pH8.5-9的地区,生长良好。不仅在北方生长良好,而且也非常适合南方气候。秋叶挂色时间持久,是出色的行道树之一。此一品种以出色的秋色,无与伦比的生长速度,抗叶蝉,具有适应极端宽广的气候条件和广泛的土壤条件等特性而著名。杰出的园林绿化乔木树种,被美国城市绿化协会评为2004年城市绿化年树和2003年8月城市绿化月树,被衣阿华州评为1997年城市绿化年树。

斐里曼槭(Acer x freemanii)国内也翻译作自由人槭.是槭树科槭属。全球耐寒分布3-9区均可种植,长春以南广东州以北均可种植这个树种。

freemanii是以 Oliver M. Freeman的命名的,所以个人觉得这个还是音译作斐里曼槭比较合适。估计翻译者也没具体考究这个译名的出处来自就直接意译,国内植物译名向来混乱,随便什么都可以私自翻译,搞的现在国内植物学译名学术与通俗混乱共存,相互不能辨识。



植物用途:

出色的行道树、遮阳树、高档的庭院景观树。适合作为高档庭院、街道和公园的绿化、美化树种。



购买此商品顾客还购买了

适种区域:

北至黑龙江,南至广西北部、云南、湖南。在北京、河北、山东、辽宁、陕西、河南等多个地区大受欢迎。



植物特征:

椭圆形浓密的树冠。树干笔直,秋季红叶缤纷, 持续时间长。

Fertilizing

How-tos : Fertilization for Young Plants

Young plants need extra phosphorus to encourage good root development. Look for a fertilizer that has phosphorus, P, in it(the second number on the bag.) Apply recommended amount for plant per label directions in the soil at time of planting or at least during the first growing season.

How-tos : Fertilization for Established Plants

Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.

Light

Conditions : Partial Sun, Partial Shade

Part sun or part shade plants prefer light that is filtered. Sunlight, though not direct, is important to them. Often morning sun, because it is not as strong as afternoon sun, can be considered part sun or part shade. If you live in an area that does not get much intense sun, such as the Pacific Northwest, a full sun exposure may be fine. In other areas such as Florida, plant in a location where afternoon shade will be received.

Conditions : Full to Partial Sun

Full sunlight is needed for many plants to assume their full potential. Many of these plants will do fine with a little less sunlight, although they may not flower as heavily or their foliage as vibrant. Areas on the southern and western sides of buildings usually are the sunniest. The only exception is when houses or buildings are so close together, shadows are cast from neighboring properties. Full sun usually means 6 or more hours of direct unobstructed sunlight on a sunny day. Partial sun receives less than 6 hours of sun, but more than 3 hours. Plants able to take full sun in some climates may only be able to tolerate part sun in other climates. Know the culture of the plant before you buy and plant it!

Watering

Conditions : Moist

Moist is defined as soil that receives regular watering to a depth of 18 inch deep, does not dry out, but does not have a drainage problem either.

Conditions : Moist and Well Drained

Moist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants.

Planting

How-tos : Pruning Trees After Planting

It is critical to prune trees correctly from the beginning to assure proper growth and development. Young trees can be transplanted in a number of forms: bare root, balled & burlap and in containers. The more stress the plant undergoes in the transplant process, the more pruning that is required to compensate.

Deciduous trees like maples (those that loose their leaves in the fall) can be dug up and sold with their bare roots exposed. Because most of the root system is lost in digging, sufficient top growth should be removed to compensate for this loss. This may be done at the nursery before you buy the plant or you may have to prune at the time of planting. Select and head back the best scaffold branches, i.e. those branches which will form the main lateral structure of the future mature tree. Remove all other extraneous side branches. If the tree seedling does not have branches, allow it to grow to the desired height of branching then pinch it back to stimulate the lower buds to form branches.

Ball and burlap trees are dug up with their root systems somewhat intact. This was mostly done for conifers and broadleaf evergreens, but has become common for deciduous trees as well. Since some root mass is lost in the digging stage, a light pruning is generally called for. Head back the plant to compensate for this loss and to promote branching.

Trees that are grown in containers generally do not loose roots in the transplanting phase. Therefore you do not generally have to prune them unless there is some root injury or limb damage in the planting process.

Once you have your trees planted, be patient. Do not remove shoots from the trunk early on as these allow the tree to grow more rapidly and also shade the tender young trunk from sun-scald. Wait a few years to begin training the tree to its ultimate form.

How-tos : Staking Trees

Staking is done differently depending on the size and flexibility of the tree, and the windiness of the planting site. Generally only trees that are planted in windy, exposed locations need to be staked. For most trees, a low stake is preferred, to let the tree move naturally. For windy areas or flexible trees, use a high stake. For trees more than 12 feet tall, use two low stakes on opposite sides of the tree or several guy ropes. The ties used need to accommodate growth and not cause bark damage with friction. Buckle-and-spacer ties can be found at garden centers, they are expandable and have a protective spacer. Ties without spacers should be formed into a figure eight to create padding. Latest studies have shown that when staking a tree, provide enough leeway so that the tree can move back and forth in the wind. Stronger roots will develop this way. If the tree can not move back and forth, these important roots will not develop and the tree might fall over during a storm, once stakes are removed. When planting a tree, stake at the time of planting if staking is a necessity.

How-tos : Planting a Tree

Dig out an area for the tree that is about 3 or 4 times the diameter of the container or rootball and the same depth as the container or rootball. Use a pitchfork or shovel to scarify the sides of the hole.

If container-grown, lay the tree on its side and remove the container. Loosen the roots around the edges without breaking up the root ball too much. Position tree in center of hole so that the best side faces forward. You are ready to begin filling in with soil.

If planting a balled and burlaped tree, position it in hole so that the best side faces forward. Untie or remove nails from burlap at top of ball and pull burlap back, so it does not stick out of hole when soil is replaced. Synthetic burlap should be removed as it will not decompose like natural burlap. Larger trees often come in wire baskets. Plant as you would a b&b plant, but cut as much of the wire away as possible without actually removing the basket. Chances are, you would do more damage to the rootball by removing the basket. Simply cut away wires to leave several large openings for roots.

Fill both holes with soil the same way. Never amend with less than half original soil. Recent studies show that if your soil is loose enough, you are better off adding little or no soil amendments.

Create a water ring around the outer edge of the hole. Not only will this conseve water, but will direct moisture to perimeter roots, encouraging outer growth. Once tree is established, water ring may be leveled. Studies show that mulched trees grow faster than those unmulched, so add a 3"" layer of pinestraw, compost, or pulverized bark over backfilled area. Remove any damaged limbs.

Problems

Diseases : Verticillium or Fusarium Wilt

Wilts may be contracted through infected seed, plant debris, or soil. This fungus begins and multiplies during the cool, moist season, becoming obvious when weather turns warm and dry. Plants wilt because the fungus damages their water conducting mechanisms. Overfertilization can worsen this problem. Able to overwinter in soil for many years, it is also carried and harbored in common weeds.

Prevention and Control: If possible, select resistant varieties. Keep nitrogen-heavy fertilizers to a minimum as well as over-irrigating as they encourage lush growth. Practice crop rotation and prune out or better yet remove infected plants.

Pest : Spider Mites

Spider mites are small, 8 legged, spider-like creatures which thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). Spider mites feed with piercing mouth parts, which cause plants to appear yellow and stippled. Leaf drop and plant death can occur with heavy infestations. Spider mites can multiply quickly, as a female can lay up to 200 eggs in a life span of 30 days. They also produce a web which can cover infested leaves and flowers.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds down and remove infested plants. Dry air seems to worsen the problem, so make sure plants are regularly watered, especially those preferring high humidity such as tropicals, citrus, or tomatoes. Always check new plants prior to bringing them home from the garden center or nursery. Take advantage of natural enemies such as ladybug larvae. If a miticide is recommended by your local garden center professional or county Cooperative Extension office, read and follow all label directions. Concentrate your efforts on the undersides of the leaves as that is where spider mites generally live.

Pest : Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies

Fungus Gnats or Shore fliesare small pesky flies which can often be a nuisance inside the home. About the size of fruit flies, they can be seen running on the soil surface of pots. They seem to favor wet soil conditions and may thrive in mixes containing hardwood bark or manure. While the worm-like larvae can cause root damage and adults can transmit plant diseases, they rarely cause severe plant damage.

Possible controls: avoid over-watering soil. Another option: use labelled insecticidal drenches against the juvenile stages. Adults can be controlled with recommended insecticides, as well. Encourage natural enemies such as parasitic nematodes in the garden.

Pest : Aphids

Aphids are small, soft-bodied, slow-moving insects that suck fluids from plants. Aphids come in many colors, ranging from green to brown to black, and they may have wings. They attack a wide range of plant species causing stunting, deformed leaves and buds. They can transmit harmful plant viruses with their piercing/sucking mouthparts. Aphids, generally, are merely a nuisance, since it takes many of them to cause serious plant damage. However aphids do produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface growth called sooty mold.

Aphids can increase quickly in numbers and each female can produce up to 250 live nymphs in the course of a month without mating. Aphids often appear when the environment changes - spring & fall. They're often massed at the tips of branches feeding on succulent tissue. Aphids are attracted to the color yellow and will often hitchhike on yellow clothing.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds to an absolute minimum, especially around desirable plants. On edibles, wash off infected area of plant. Lady bugs and lacewings will feed on aphids in the garden. There are various products - organic and inorganic - that can be used to control aphids. Seek the recommendation of a professional and follow all label procedures to a tee.

Pest : Caterpillars

Caterpillars are the immature form of moths and butterflies. They are voracious feeders attacking a wide variety of plants. They can be highly destructive and are characterized as leaf feeders, stem borers, leaf rollers, cutworms and tent-formers.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down, scout individual plants and remove caterpillars, apply labeled insecticides such as soaps and oils, take advantage of natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden and use Bacillus thuringiensis (biological warfare) for some caterpillar species.

Fungi : Leaf Spots

Leaf spots are caused by fungi or bacteria. Brown or black spots and patches may be either ragged or circular, with a water soaked or yellow-edged appearance. Insects, rain, dirty garden tools, or even people can help its spread.

Prevention and Control: Remove infected leaves when the plant is dry. Leaves that collect around the base of the plant should be raked up and disposed of. Avoid overhead irrigation if possible; water should be directed at soil level. For fungal leaf spots, use a recommended fungicide according to label directions.

Pest : Scale Insects

Scales are insects, related to mealybugs, that can be a problem on a wide variety of plants - indoor and outdoor. Young scales crawl until they find a good feeding site. The adult females then lose their legs and remain on a spot protected by its hard shell layer. They appear as bumps, often on the lower sides of leaves. They have piercing mouth parts that suck the sap out of plant tissue. Scales can weaken a plant leading to yellow foliage and leaf drop. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.

Prevention and Control: Once established they are hard to control. Isolate infested plants away from those that are not infested. Cosnult your local garden center professional or Cooperative Extension office in your county for a legal recommendation regarding their control. Encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden.

Miscellaneous

Conditions : Fall Color

Fall color is the result of trees or shrubs changing colors according to complex chemical formulas present in their leaves. Depending on how much iron, magnesium, phosphorus, or sodium is in the plant, and the acidity of the chemicals in the leaves, leaves might turn amber, gold, red, orange or just fade from green to brown. Scarlet oaks, red maples and sumacs, for instance, have a slightly acidic sap, which causes the leaves to turn bright red. The leaves of some varieties of ash, growing in areas where limestone is present, will turn a regal purplish-blue.

Although many people believe that cooler temperatures are responsible for the color change, the weather has nothing to do with it at all. As the days grow shorter and the nights longer, a chemical clock inside the trees starts up, releasing a hormone which restricts the flow of sap to each leaf. As fall progresses, the sap flow slows and chlorophyll, the chemical that gives the leaves their green color in the spring and summer, disappears. The residual sap becomes more concentrated as it dries, creating the colors of fall.

Glossary : Deciduous

Deciduous refers to those plants that lose their leaves or needles at the end of the growing season.

Glossary : Tree

Tree: a woody perennial with a crown of branches that begin atop a single stem or trunk. The exception to this rule is multi-trunk trees, which some may argue are really very large shrubs.

Glossary : Viruses

Viruses, which are smaller than bacteria, are not living and do not replicate on their own. They must rely on the cellular mechanisms of their hosts to replicate. Because this greatly disrupts the cell's functionality, outward signs of a viral infection result in a plant disease with symptoms such as abnormal or stunted growth, damaged fruit, discolorations or spots.

Prevention and Control: Keep virus carriers such as aphids, leafhoppers, and thrips under control. These plant feeding insects spread viruses. Viruses can also be introduced by infected pollen or through plant openings (as when pruning). Begin by keeping the pathogen out of your garden. New plants should be checked, as well as tools and existing plants. Use only certified seed that is deemed disease-free. Plant only resistant varieties and create a discouraging environment by rotating crops, not planting closely related plants in the same area every year.

Autumn Blaze Maple

Grows Faster than Most Red Maples!

Easy to grow

Thrives in any soil

Tolerates drought

Brilliant red fall color

Rapid shade producer

Superior breeding has created a tree that is perfect for today's busy homeowner. With Autumn Blaze, you get a beautiful shade tree without the maintenance hassle. Anyone can enjoy a specimen quality maple tree without any special knowledge!

Distinct upright oval shape makes it an excellent specimen tree.

You can plant just one specially placed Autumn Blaze Maple. Our landscape design consultant suggests planting in multiples to reduce your energy bills as fast as possible. It is a proven fact that mature trees drop heating and cooling costs up to 40 percent! Autumn Blaze grows so fast you will soon be benefiting by saving money.

Your Autumn Blaze Maple needs no pruning for a full balanced shape.

We have all seen Maple Trees that have poorly shaped canopies, but not with your Autumn Blaze Maple Tree. They grow in so many climates and every soil type allowing you to succeed at growing these beautiful champion trees in your yard.

Award winning Autumn Blaze is insect and disease resistant!

It is no surprise that cities demand this tree... just plant it and watch it grow into a regal beauty. Low maintenance and beautiful all year long, you will want at least one for your home landscape.

Reap huge benefits from our Autumn Blaze Maples.

Remember that when buying your Autumn Blaze Maple at Brighter Blooms you are going to get a tree with a superior root system that will thrive in your area



植物习性:

在高氮养分中生长特别迅速。变色稍早,在 北方非常适宜,秋叶无冻伤现象。同时也适合南方的温暖气候。

喜欢中性至弱酸性的土壤,在碱性土壤生长表现欠佳,栽培土壤环境不佳的需要在栽培前改良土壤。

此树种不是十分耐干旱,喜欢肥沃相对湿润的土壤。

耐碱值pH9.5;

斐里曼槭是19世纪30年代在美国国家树木园杂交成功的园艺栽培树种,亲本是红花槭和银白槭树(Acer rubrum (Red Maple) × Acer saccharinum )。这两个亲本品种其实在野生状态下即可频繁自然杂交,不过当时没人注意到这点。

这个杂交树种生长速度很快,成树株高在15-20米左右,植株树形非常好看,给人一种挺拔不屈之感。树冠呈冠园球型,掌叶深裂5裂,宽约10cm。秋季是这个树种的最佳观赏期,常见的杂交种大都是呈现红色或是金黄色叶色。春季开花的时候大部分都是红色的花,也有一些个别品种会开出黄绿色的花。这个树种喜欢全日照阳光直射的环境,略微可以耐庇荫环境,庇荫环境对于其秋季叶片着色十分不利。

这个树种在国内气候下适应性很不错,彩叶树的引种向来风险很高,一来是引种成活率不是很高,还有就是在离开植物的原生地气候之后,在新的气候特点下植物是不是能继续保留之前的观赏特性也是很难说的,比如说挪威槭一些品种引种成活后起观赏价值和适应性就不是很令人满意,斐里曼槭是少数几个引种之后表现也很不错的品种之一。大连几年的陆地栽培观察感觉这个树种有很好的推广价值。


商品介绍 商品图片 商品评价

 
华石红枫秋火焰是美国改良红枫中性状优良的高大乔木品种
  • 优点:
  • 秋叶色彩艳丽,变色、生长、树形等方面的表现一致性强,近年来在园林中的表现广受认可。
  • 生长快,抗性强,普及面广!
  • 适应性强,在北京、河北、山东、辽宁、陕西、河南等多个地区大受好评。
  • 企业推广力度大,流行速度快。
  • 本规格的苗生长势足,根系发达,种植损失率极小,管理省力!
  •  
大 小 约 S M L XL XXL
地    径 6公分 8公分 10公分 12公分 15公分
米    径 5.5公分 7.5公分 9.5公分 11.5公分 14.5公分
胸    径 5公分 7 9公分 11公分 14公分
树    高 4米 6米 8米 10米 12米
冠    幅 3米 3.5米 4米 5米 6米

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表现
100% 的用户认为实际秋色[红艳]
100% 的用户认为实际树形[整齐]
100% 的用户认为种植情况[适应]
用户评分  观赏性:红星红星红星红星红星 适应性:红星红星红星红星红星  整齐性:红星红星红星红星红星   共有0条评论
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